TCC- Probleme

[Old-Chevi]

Fehlerdiagnose beim TCC- Solenoid.

Bei dem einen oder anderem Getriebe macht ja das TCC mal Probleme bzw. ist defekt.
- TCC = Torque Converter Clutch (auch Wandlesperre genannt).
- Solenoid = Elektrischer Schalter / Magnetventile.

Die gesamt Funktionweise:
Im Getriebe gibt es einen gesonderten Öldruckkanal dafür, der ständig Öldruck hat.
Der Ölkanal ist (je Bauart) an geeigneter Stelle angebohrt und dort ist der TCC-Solenoid angeflanscht (mit dem Ventilschaft eingesteckt und O-Ring abdichtung sowie mit einer Schraube befetigt).
Bei nicht aktivierter Sperre entweicht der ständige Öldruck über das Ventil (Solenoid) zurück in die Ölwanne.
Werden alle voraussetzungen erfüllt (Temperatur/ Geschwindigkeit) wird der Solenoid eingeschaltet - Ventil schließt, die Temperatur vorgabe - mehr als 45'grad und Geschwindigkeit mehr als 62 kmh.
Der Solenoid hat nur zwei Kabel plus und minus, das minus Kabel wird durch den daneben liegenden Öldrucksensor durchgeschleift (merkt der Öldrucksensor einen höheren Druck, wie zb. beim Kickdown, wird die Masse unterbrochen und der Solenoid schaltet sofort ab (Motor kann hoch drehen).
Wird der Solenoid normal aktiv schließt das Ventil, der Öldruck baut sich auf und wird weiter geführt durch die Getriebe Eingangswelle bis in den Wandler.
Im Wandler befindet sich hinter dem Turbinenrad eine Kupplung, die nun durch den Öldruck geschlossen wird,
dadurch entsteht eine starre verbindung zwischen Wandleraußengehäuse und Abtriebsturbinenrad zur Getriebeeingangswelle.
Geht die Geschwindigkeit unter ca.65 kmh öffnet das Ventil vom Solenoid automatisch wieder.
Ebenso öffnet es beim betätigen des Bremspedales (da das Plus Kabel über einen zweiten Schalter am Bremspedal geschleift wird) die 12V + zum Solenoid werden unterbrochen.

Fehler möglichkeiten:
- TCC schließt nicht,
> Spule im Solenoid durchgebrannt / der bewegliche Kern der Spule klemmt / Öldruckschalter defekt / Schalter am Bremspedal defekt / andere Kabel unterbrechungen.

-TCC öffnet nicht,
> der bewegliche Kern der Spule ist verklemmt (ventil bleibt zu) > Motor wird bei langsamer Fahrt oder Anhalte Versuch abgewürgt.

In meinem Fall war es nun so, das der Solenoid zu schaltete und anfangs auch normal öffnete, aber nach erreichen der Betriebstemperatur nicht mehr öffnete !
Somit war ein anhalten oder anfahren aus dem stand nicht mehr möglich da kein Wandlerschlupf mehr möglich war.
Also erst mal stecker vom Getriebe runter half auch nix, Ventil klemmte bzw. blieb weiter zu.
Um nun Heim zukommen blieb nichts weiter übrig als einen Passanten um Hilfe zu bitten > Getriebe auf neutral > Fahrzeug mit schieben auf ca. 10kmh bringen >rein springen Gang rein und weiter fahren ohne Stop.
Nach abkühlung des Getiebes ging das ventil (Solenoid) wieder auf und ein fahren mit abgestecktem Stecker war die nächste Zeit möglich (nur ohne Wandlersperre).

Später hab ich das Teil aus gebaut und untersucht mit den Ergebnissen:

- die Wicklung der Spule ist direkt auf eine Plastikhülse gewickelt > in dieser Hülse bewegt sich durch das Magnetfeld der Metallkern und drückt letztlich auf das Ventil.
- Die Spule entwickelt anscheinend eine große Hitze (obwohl vom ÖL ständig umspült) und hat so mit der Zeit die Hartplastikhülse innen verformt (sichtbare Hitzebeulen und Buckel zu sehen) letztlich kann das Ventil offen klemmen oder geschlossen klemmen.

Bilderklärungen:
- 1. Öldruck Eintritt ins Ventil (rote Kunststoffhülse)
- 2. Öldruck Austritt in den Ölwannenraum
- 3. In dem Kreuz am Ventilende sitzt eine Glaskugel als Ventilspitze (bei älteren Modellen ein Messingstift mit Kugelförmiger Spitze)
- 4. Der Metallkern der durch das Magnetfeld bewegt wird und auf die Kugel (3.) drückt
- 5. Halteblech für die Spule
- 6. Halteblech für das Ventil
- Am letzten Bild ist der Spulenkörper (Hartplastik) zu sehen mit der Innenhülse bzw. Bohrung die verformt ist.

Bilder folgen noch !!!!

[Schakal]

So, auf die Hoffnung hin, das das auch nen paar Tage länger Online bleibt mit den Bilders bei imageshack poste ich sie eben für Mike!

<img src="http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/9628 ... id17qc.jpg">

<img src="http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/6274 ... id27dt.jpg">

<img src="http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/4974 ... id39px.jpg">

<img src="http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/7714 ... id46ad.jpg">

<img src="http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/6742 ... id53za.jpg">

[Old-Chevi]

@Stephan > Danke !

[Patrick Freitag]

Diagnosing GM Converter Lock-Up Problems

Generally, if you unplug the TCC solenoid at the transmission and the symptoms go away, you have found the problem. But sometimes this can be misleading because you don't know for sure if it's a bad solenoid, dirt in the valve body or a bad signal from the ECM. The only way to know for certain is to follow the diagnostic procedure as outlined by General Motors. If you follow the test step by step you will be able to determine the exact cause of the problem.
Since some of these tests require the drive wheels be raised off the ground and the engine and transmission run in gear, proper care must be taken to perform the tests in a safe manner. Support the vehicle with jack stands. NEVER run the vehicle in gear when supported only with a jack. Chock the drive wheels and apply the parking brake.
In addition, some of the tests (test #11 and 12) require the transmission be opened and the valves be physically inspected. I do not recommend that you do this. If all the other tests pass, then it's time to bring it to a shop and have the internal parts checked for proper operation.


Test #1 (Regular Method)
Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At Transmission
1. Raise the vehicle on the lift so the driving wheels are off the ground.
2. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground. Unplug the wires at the case and place the tip of your test light on the terminal marked A.
3. Do not depress the brake pedal.
4. Computer controlled vehicles: turn on the ignition and the tester should light.
5. All other vehicles: start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
6. Raise RPM to 1500 and the tester should light. If tester lights continue with Regular Method.
7. If the tester does not light go to Test # 2.


Test #1 (Quick Method)
Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At The ALDL
Note: ALDL quick methods, when given, are a way to perform many of the tests at the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL). This will allow you to do most of the electrical checks from the driver's seat and save much valuable diagnostic time.
1. Connect one end of a test light to terminal A at the ALDL.
2. Connect the other end to terminal F at the ALDL.
3. Turn on the ignition and the tester should light. Note: some transmissions, like the 125C must shift to 3rd before the tester will light.
4. If the tester lights, you have 12 volts to terminal A at the transmission. Go to Test # 6.
5. If the tester does not light, then check for 12 volts by the regular method.

Test #2
Checking For 12 Volts Across Fuse
1. Check for 12 volts at both sides of the fuse.
2. Locate the fuse box and the fuse marked "gauges" (most models).
3. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground. Turn the ignition on.
4. Place the tip of your test light on one side of the fuse and the tester should light.
5. Place the tip of your test light on the other side of the fuse and the tester should again light.


Test #3 Checking For 12 Volts Across Brake Switch
IMPORTANT: Either of these switches can be used for lock-up. To avoid mis-diagnosis, check them both. If the upper switch with the vacuum hose is used, check the two wires at that switch. On the four wire lower switch, check the two wires farthest from the plunger.
1. Check for 12 volts at both sides of the brake switch. Some GM vehicles have two electric switches at the brake pedal. One switch will have four wires and the other switch will have two wires and a vacuum hose.
2. Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground.
3. Do not depress the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition "on".
5. Push the tip of your tester into one wire and the tester should light.
6. Now test the other wire and again the tester should light.
7. Depress the brake pedal and re-test. Only one wire should now be hot.

Test #4
Adjusting/Replacing the Brake Switch
1. Remove the brake switch from its bracket.
2. Reconnect the wires to the brake switch.
3. Re-test as stated in test # 2, but push and release the plunger with your finger or thumb.
4. If it now passes the test, the brake switch is good, but needs adjusting.
5. If it still doesn't pass, replace the brake switch.


Test #5
Checking Wires For Shorts and Opens
IMPORTANT: Make sure the ignition switch is "off" for the following tests.
Shorts:
1. Set your ohmmeter to ohms times one (Rx1).
2. Connect one lead of your ohmmeter to one end of the suspect wire.
3. Connect the other lead of your ohmmeter to a good ground.
4. If the meter reads ANYTHING other than infinity, you have a short to ground in that wire.
Opens:
1. If a suspect wire has no voltage through it, and its connection at both ends is good, and it's not shorted to ground, the wire has an open in it.
2. Replace the wire.


Test #6 (Regular Method)
Check for ground at terminal D at the transmission.
1. On Non-computer-controlled vehicles skip this test and go directly to cooler line pressure, or surge test.
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift so the driving wheels are off the ground.
3. Unplug the wires at the case and connect the alligator clip of your test light to terminal A.
4. Place the tip of your test light on terminal D.
5. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
6. Place the selector in Drive. (O.D. on four speed units).
7. Accelerate slowly to 60 mph and the tester should light.
8. If the tester does not light you have a computer system problem. Go to test # 7 (Regular Method).


Test #6 (Quick Method)
Check for ground at terminal D at the ALDL
Note: First you must have passed ALDL Quick method (Test # 1. Otherwise continue with regular method Test # 6).
1. The test light should still be connected between terminal A and F at the ALDL.
2. With the engine at normal operating temperature, go for a road test
3. As you start your road test the tester should be lit.
Note: If your foot is on the brake the light will be out.
4. Watch the test light to see if it goes out at some point during the road test
5. If the test light goes out, you have ground at terminal D at the transmission. Go to test # 7.
6. If the test light stays on you have a computer system problem. (See test # 13) Go test # 7.


Test #7 (Regular Method)
Ground the D wire at the transmission
1. Shave a little insulation from or pierce the D wire near the transmission connector. Reseal with silicon.
2. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the bare wire you just shaved or pierced.
3. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to ground.
4. Road test for lock-up (can be done on lift).
5. If you're not sure if lock-up occurred, then hold a steady speed of 60 mph (on the lift) and lightly touch and release the brake. You should feel lock-up disengage and re-engage.


Test #7 (Quick Method)
Ground the D wire at the ALDL
Note: You must first have passed ALDL Quick method (Test # 1).
1. Connect one end of a test light or jumper wire to terminal A at the ALDL.
2. Go for a road test. (This can also be done on the lift)
3. At approximately 35 mph, connect the other end of the test light or jumper wire to terminal F at the ALDL. The torque converter should Lock-up.
4. Whether the T/C locks up or not, follow the trouble-shooting tree to the next step, cooler line surge test.


Test #8
Checking Cooler Line Pressure or Surge
1. Check cooler line pressure or surge.
2. Disconnect a cooler line.
3. Attach one end of a rubber hose to the disconnected line coming from the radiator.
4. Insert the other end of the rubber hose into the fill tube of the transmission.
5. With the driving wheels off the ground, start the engine. Hold the rubber hose in your hand. Have as assistant place the selector in Drive and (slowly) accelerate to 60 mph. When the lock-up valve moves, the rubber hose should jump slightly.


Test #9
Checking the Solenoid
You will need an ANALOG ohmmeter and a 12-volt source for this test.
1. Connect the Black lead of your ohmmeter to the RED wire on the solenoid.
2. Connect the RED lead of your ohmmeter to the BLACK wire on the solenoid. If you have a one-wire solenoid then connect the RED lead of your ohmmeter to the solenoid body.
3. With the ohmmeter set at ohms times one (Rx1), the reading should be no less then 20 ohms, but not infinite.
4. Connect the RED lead of your ohmmeter to the RED wire on the solenoid and the Black lead to the Black wire or body (You're just switching your connections).
5. The ohmmeter should read less than the reading in the first test.
6. Connect the solenoid to a 12-volt source. BE SURE TO OBSERVE PROPER POLARITY, if using a car battery.
7. With lung pressure (or very low pressure) try to blow through the solenoid. It should be sealed.
8. Disconnect the 12-volt source and you should now be able to blow through the solenoid.


Test #10
Checking Electrical Switches on Transmission
Note: If you have passed the ALDL Quick methods, the electrical switches are NOT causing the any lock-up condition. Go to test # 11.
SWITCH TYPE: Single terminal normally open
PART#: 8642473
TEST: Connect one ohmmeter lead to the terminal of the switch and the other lead to the body of the switch. Ohmmeter should read infinite. Apply 60 psi of air to the switch and the ohmmeter should read 0.
SWITCH TYPE: Signal terminal normally closed
PART#: 8642569, 8634475
TEST: Connect one ohmmeter lead to the terminal of the switch and the other lead to the body of the switch. Ohmmeter should read 0. Apply 60 psi of air to the switch and the ohmmeter should read infinite.

SWITCH TYPE: Two terminal normally open
PART#: 8643710
TEST: Connect one ohmmeter lead to one terminal of the switch and the other lead to the other lead to the other terminal. Ohmmeter should read infinite. Apply 60 psi of air to the switch and the ohmmeter should read 0.
SWITCH TYPE: Two terminal normally closed
PART#: 8642346
TEST: Connect one ohmmeter lead to one terminal of the switch and the other lead to the other terminal. Ohmmeter should read 0. Apply 60 psi of air to the switch and the ohmmeter should read infinite.


Test #11
Checking Lockup Apply Valve (Requires disassembly)


Test #12
Checking Signal Oil Circuit (Requires disassembly)


Test #13
Checking the Computer System
The purpose of the following tests is to allow the Professional Transmission Technician to locate the general area of a computer system malfunction. For a more complete test procedure, refer to the appropriate shop manual. The computer system has a self-diagnostic capability. Always begin computer system checks by accessing the computer's diagnostic circuit.
All of the sensors that send information to the computer are assigned a two-digit trouble code. If one of these sensors malfunctions, the computer will store the sensor's trouble code in its memory and usually activate the "Check Engine" or "Service Soon" light. When the computer is in the diagnostic state, it will read out the trouble codes stored in its memory. You then have a place to start looking for the malfunction.

Diagnostic Circuit Check
1. Turn the ignition "ON" and have the engine "OFF".
2. The check engine light should be "ON" steady. (If the check engine light is "OFF", check the bulb).
3. If the bulb is good, or the light flashes intermittently, refer to the car's service manual for further checks.
4. Connect a jumper between pins A and B of the 12 pin ALDL.
5. The check engine light should flash a code 12. (If it does not flash a code 12, refer to the car's service manual for further tests).
6. If you get a code 12, note and record any additional codes.
7. If a 50 series code is stored, refer to the car's service manual for further tests.
8. Clear the computer's long-term memory, and go for another road test.
9. Retest and record codes.
10. If no codes were present in EITHER test, the computer doesn't see any malfunctions. (This does not mean that there is no malfunction).
11. If codes were only present in the first test, they are intermittent.
If codes were present in BOTH tests, the computer is seeing a current malfunction. The following codes are most likely to affect transmission performance.
1. Code 14 = Shorted Coolant Temperature Circuit
2. Code 15 = Open Coolant Temperature Circuit
3. Code 21 = Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
4. Code 24 = Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit
5. Code 32 = Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit
6. Code 34 = MAP or Vacuum Sensor Circuit


How To Read Trouble Codes:
Trouble code 12 will show as one flash of the check engine light followed by a pause and then two more quick flashes. This will repeat two more times. Code 34 will show as three flashes followed by a pause and then 4 quick flashes. All codes in the computer will flash three times, starting with the lowest code, until all codes have been displayed. The computer will then start the entire sequence again beginning with code 12. If more than one trouble code is present, always start your checks with the lowest number code. Exception: A 50 series code is always checked first. An example: if a code 21 and a code 32 were present, you would diagnose code 21 first.


How To Clear The Computer (ECM):
1. Turn the key "off".
2. Remove the jumper between A and B at the ALDL.
3. Disconnect the pigtail lead on the positive battery cable or remove the ECM fuse for 10 seconds.
4. Reconnect the pigtail or replace the fuse and the codes are erased.
5. Drive the car at operating temperature for at least 5 minutes before re-checking for trouble codes. Go back to test # 13.
If you followed this test procedure step by step you will have found exactly where the problem is. Now the question is: "If I have a bad TCC solenoid, how do I replace it?" Since the TCC solenoid is attached to the auxiliary valve body it is best left to a transmission expert to replace. Also there is the possibility of a physical obstruction or an auxiliary valve body cross leak. Additionally there is a modification to be made to the auxiliary valve body gasket that has to be made in certain transmissions. And finally, If you have a vehicle that is earlier than 1987, replace the TCC solenoid with #8652379. The pre-1987 type of solenoid would clog easier than the late type.


P.